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-   -   FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=94413)

ILLusion May 21st, 2013 00:59

I couldn't tell what that washer was at first, because the photo of it didn't put a scale to it. It would have told more if it was placed beside the rest of the components in the same photo.

However, I'm 99% certain it's the washer that's supposed to sit between the shock buffer and the recoil spring, as I don't see any washer there at all in the other photos. If you run your gun without a steel washer in that location, the action will actually chop that shock buffer to pieces.

As for the guide rod coming loose, yes, it is an issue. The two holes drilled through the side, are to allow you to insert keys through them, so that you can crank down the rod with enough torque to secure the two parts. Put some Loctite on the threads so that it won't come apart again. For your particular setup, you shouldn't ever have to take the two pieces apart. They're only machined as two pieces, as it's easier to manufacture a base unit as one piece, and then a second piece that screws down to the required length.

TaroBear May 21st, 2013 01:16

Ah, okay. So it does go where I thought. At this point, how can I screw the rod together efficiently? The best way I've found is to slip half of the rod and the spring in, then push the other part of the rod in through the business end of the slide.

If it was one piece, I'd just slip everything into the slide from the inside, but it just doesn't seem possible here. It doesn't help that the spring is extremely stiff.

What's the *proper* slide stripping procedure for this setup? Is it exactly the same as the Hi Capa or 1911 set ups, and just requires a bit more finesse? I ask because I don't recall this happening previously.

ILLusion May 21st, 2013 01:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaroBear (Post 1797499)
What's the *proper* slide stripping procedure for this setup? Is it exactly the same as the Hi Capa or 1911 set ups, and just requires a bit more finesse?

^^^ THIS.

That's how I got your gun together when I'd assembled it. Like I said in my previous reply, you shouldn't ever have to disassemble the rod at all. It should all install internally.

With real steel Hi-Capas, there is actually a tool that you can purchase, which is basically a shim that you would jam in between the rod and the bushing while the slide was racked back. That would lock the assembly in a compressed state, making removal and re-insertion much easier.

mighty_kit May 21st, 2013 16:49

you don't need a special tool. I have a similar setup.
just push the recoil rod forward, keep the spring for 1 second and push back only the recoil rod. then insert an allen key that fits the hole.

ILLusion May 21st, 2013 17:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by mighty_kit (Post 1797663)
you don't need a special tool. I have a similar setup.
just push the recoil rod forward, keep the spring for 1 second and push back only the recoil rod. then insert an allen key that fits the hole.

His setup is not the same as yours, Cristian. Yours has the integrated compensator with the longer recoil rod, so for your particular setup, you have no option but to disassemble the recoil rod each time.

tarobear's setup is different, in that it's just a standard government length bull barrel setup with no compensator. Assembly and disassembly is exactly the same as any other similar setup out there, and can be extracted and re-inserted internally with zero disassembly of the rod.

TaroBear May 22nd, 2013 17:21

Got it back in, thanks. Man, that spring is stiff. I've always been curious, why are aftermarket springs coloured differently? Just cosmetics?

ILLusion May 22nd, 2013 17:31

Yep, that's pretty much it. Brand identification, or differentiation between the gun platforms they're purposed for.

mighty_kit May 24th, 2013 15:19

I understand...I'm glad I found an easy way to dissasemble the recoil rod.

TaroBear May 25th, 2013 16:42

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol..._Stainless.htm

Am I reading this product description right? There are finally ambi mag catchs for the 1911?

ILLusion May 26th, 2013 11:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaroBear (Post 1799016)
http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol..._Stainless.htm

Am I reading this product description right? There are finally ambi mag catchs for the 1911?

These have been available in the real steel world for quite some time. It was just eventual that they would be made available for airsoft.

The mechanism is basically the same thing as ambi mag catches for the Armalite platform. There is a lever mounted under an opposing side button that lifts the mag catch as required.

There are more moving parts, and more moving SMALL parts to do this, so there is a higher chance of failure and/or jamming with such mechanisms... but, it's a decent compromise for lefties who are desperate for a solution.

Black Jack May 29th, 2013 11:25

Ive got a socom gear 1911 (punisher custom). Its a great gun, and Ive only upgraded the inner barrel and hopup rubber.

The oonly thing is that occasionally it gets locked up when the hammer catches under the back of the slide as its returning.

Is there a way to fix this from happening?

ILLusion May 29th, 2013 12:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Col.Angus (Post 1800368)
Ive got a socom gear 1911 (punisher custom). Its a great gun, and Ive only upgraded the inner barrel and hopup rubber.

The oonly thing is that occasionally it gets locked up when the hammer catches under the back of the slide as its returning.

Is there a way to fix this from happening?

Yep. Buy a Marui. LOL

But in all seriousness, I *think* you should be able to just swap in a Marui based hammer in to the gun, and that should solve your problem. In a number of WE/Socom Gear guns that I've messed with, the hammer hooks were cast too high, on the body, causing it to get in the way of the blowback unit. This would be the best way to solve the problem.

The next best, and even cheaper method, would be to file/machine a steeper and deeper ramp on the inside of the blowback unit, which would allow the slide to ride over the high hammer easier... OR, grind the corner of the hammer down.

apilar June 7th, 2013 06:40

Hello guys,

I was looking through this giant post trying to find my answer but i feel pressed for time and its a peculiar situation.

So i bought these two parts a slide and barrel. Order actually yesterday. Today I receive an email saying these parts will not fit together, and if my order was for two separate guns. Very nice of them to ask, but why the hell dont these work together? i am very confussed.

Here are the products that supposedly will not work together.
http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=10752

http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=9817

If anyone could give tell me why these are not compatible that would be great!

Thanks,
Alex


EDIT:
I think i figured out the problem. The barrel above has a sleeve type things on it that requires the addition of a compensator to keep in place. The image is deceiving.
I will look for a chamber + barrel, and not a one piece.

ILLusion June 7th, 2013 11:37

Do you have a compensator to go with the barrel? If not, it will not work. It will just flop around in the slide without a compensator attached to lock it up.

Just tested an ILLusion Kinetics barrel with a Shooters Design slide for the first time. Fit and function is fine.

Wepeel June 8th, 2013 15:24

I have a stock TM Hi-Capa 5.1 now and funnily enough I've ran into sort of the opposite of my previous issue with the slide catch not disengaging.

Now on the TM one, if I were to do a quick reload and insert the magazine a little too hard, the slide catch will slip and release the slide, wearing the notch down. I don't even think I insert the magazine that hard.

Is it common on these guns?


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