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-   -   FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=94413)

ujiro February 23rd, 2010 14:58

Alright figured something out. When I have everything put together properly, slide off, it works just fine. Trigger works brilliantly.

As soon as I slot the slide on, it stops working. I take it off, and the disconnect has been pushed down and won't come back up. I need to pull it back up to work.

Going to try lubing it now, thinking maybe this is the issue..

RacingManiac February 23rd, 2010 15:00

Yes its trapped under the sear....

ujiro February 23rd, 2010 15:12

Yeah it keeps doing this.

So how were you modifying the cutoff lever to stop them from getting snagged?

ILLusion February 23rd, 2010 15:16

File an angle in to the bottom of the sear to allow the disconnect lever to slip up behind it.

otherwise, remove material on your grip/frame to allow the disconnect lever to move further behind the sear.

ujiro February 23rd, 2010 15:19

Sorry, where exactly do you mean by the bottom of the sear. Like down where it hangs out the bottom, where the leaf spring is? Except behind it (not on the side that the leaf spring pushes). Right?

RacingManiac February 23rd, 2010 15:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILLusion (Post 1171110)
File an angle in to the bottom of the sear to allow the disconnect lever to slip up behind it.

otherwise, remove material on your grip/frame to allow the disconnect lever to move further behind the sear.

I actually did the opposite and file an angle on the disconnector's little arm....serves the same purpose....

ILLusion February 23rd, 2010 15:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by ujiro (Post 1171116)
Sorry, where exactly do you mean by the bottom of the sear. Like down where it hangs out the bottom, where the leaf spring is? Except behind it (not on the side that the leaf spring pushes). Right?

The area where the disconnect lever's arm is trying to slide past...

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacingManiac (Post 1171125)
I actually did the opposite and file an angle on the disconnector's little arm....serves the same purpose....

I choose to do it to the sear, because it's easier & cheaper to replace.

ujiro February 23rd, 2010 15:35

Alright, I may try this in the future, but I realized I wasn't using the IK matched sear with my IK hammer set.. So I swapped out the IK sear, and now its smooth as butter. The hammer was releasing itself sometimes (ie I would rack the slide and the hammer was getting caught up underneath on the BBU), but I just angled the center prong of the leaf spring farther inwards and now its perfect.

Thank you both for all of your help. You are very knowledgeable on this.

ILLusion February 23rd, 2010 15:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by ujiro (Post 1171134)
Alright, I may try this in the future, but I realized I wasn't using the IK matched sear with my IK hammer set.. So I swapped out the IK sear, and now its smooth as butter. The hammer was releasing itself sometimes (ie I would rack the slide and the hammer was getting caught up underneath on the BBU), but I just angled the center prong of the leaf spring farther inwards and now its perfect.

Try to avoid mixing sears & hammers between brands. Otherwise, the negative result is the harder of the two eating the softer of the two.

ujiro February 23rd, 2010 15:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILLusion (Post 1171141)
Try to avoid mixing sears & hammers between brands. Otherwise, the negative result is the harder of the two eating the softer of the two.

Roger, will do. Didn't intend to (thought I had the IK one in there already...).

Edit: Just to add. I swapped in the IK valve knocker... What a difference. Shot to shot consistency has gone up significantly, as well as the felt recoil.

juicy March 3rd, 2010 03:31

Something I would like to add that I don't think has been touched on before: linky. This is one approach to fitting a magwell to a pistol, and can be used on Hi-Capa's as well.

Speaking of which, I am preparing to take the plunge and properly fit a magwell to my current Hi-Capa. I'm thinking that so long as I go slow - i.e. remove plastic grip material slowly, and check the fit lots - I should be just fine. Any other tips for doing this with a Dremel?

ILLusion March 3rd, 2010 11:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by juicy (Post 1177626)
Something I would like to add that I don't think has been touched on before: linky. This is one approach to fitting a magwell to a pistol, and can be used on Hi-Capa's as well.

Speaking of which, I am preparing to take the plunge and properly fit a magwell to my current Hi-Capa. I'm thinking that so long as I go slow - i.e. remove plastic grip material slowly, and check the fit lots - I should be just fine. Any other tips for doing this with a Dremel?

We have the same thing on our very own forum:

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showpos...3&postcount=29

juicy March 4th, 2010 21:34

MEU question
 
How do I remove the front sight post? I think it is just held in there by friction, but I want to know for sure before I start pounding on it.

After I remove the old post, how to I install a new one?

juicy March 4th, 2010 21:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILLusion (Post 1177801)
We have the same thing on our very own forum:

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showpos...3&postcount=29

Whoops, didn't notice your reply until now. Nice, I did (basically) just that, minus the final polishing.

MoreToasties March 4th, 2010 22:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by juicy (Post 1179045)
How do I remove the front sight post? I think it is just held in there by friction, but I want to know for sure before I start pounding on it.

After I remove the old post, how to I install a new one?

I had seen ILLusion just use some sort of punch, so tried the same way.

Felt like I was going to break it, but it popped out eventually.

So yes, friction.


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