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-   -   FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=94413)

juicy March 4th, 2010 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoreToasties (Post 1179076)
I had seen ILLusion just use some sort of punch, so tried the same way.

Felt like I was going to break it, but it popped out eventually.

So yes, friction.

Dang, okay. Well, I've got a week or two of waiting before my new sights arrive...

Same goes for the MEU as does the Hi-Capa? Can someone verify this?

Slono March 4th, 2010 22:26

yeah same thing...

ILLusion March 5th, 2010 13:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by juicy (Post 1179045)
How do I remove the front sight post? I think it is just held in there by friction, but I want to know for sure before I start pounding on it.

After I remove the old post, how to I install a new one?

You know when you go to Chinese or Japanese take out, you get those crappy garbage wooden chopsticks that break apart and they'll give you splinters? Don't use those ones.

I use slightly higher quality bamboo chopsticks (that you still have to snap apart) - chop off a small piece of it, maybe 1" in length. I use that as a punch to knock the sight out through the dovetail.

DON'T use a metal punch or you'll scratch/damage your sight/slide. This is why I use a wooden/bamboo punch. Bamboo ones are stronger than the crappy wooden ones which will shatter when you punch down.

juicy March 5th, 2010 14:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILLusion (Post 1179469)
You know when you go to Chinese or Japanese take out, you get those crappy garbage wooden chopsticks that break apart and they'll give you splinters? Don't use those ones.

I use slightly higher quality bamboo chopsticks (that you still have to snap apart) - chop off a small piece of it, maybe 1" in length. I use that as a punch to knock the sight out through the dovetail.

DON'T use a metal punch or you'll scratch/damage your sight/slide. This is why I use a wooden/bamboo punch. Bamboo ones are stronger than the crappy wooden ones which will shatter when you punch down.

Yup, I'm following you on this one. Only thing is... where exactly should I position the punch? i.e. left or right side, on the post or at the base?

ILLusion March 5th, 2010 14:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by juicy (Post 1179482)
Yup, I'm following you on this one. Only thing is... where exactly should I position the punch? i.e. left or right side, on the post or at the base?

Doesn't matter left or right side... just remember which way you go out, so that you can re-insert from the same side. Installing/removing the slide WILL cause some scratch marks, so it's best to minimize it by keeping it on the same side all the time.

Punch at the base - never do it to the post or you can snap it clean off the base (I've done this before.)

ujiro March 5th, 2010 14:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILLusion (Post 1179490)
Doesn't matter left or right side... just remember which way you go out, so that you can re-insert from the same side. Installing/removing the slide WILL cause some scratch marks, so it's best to minimize it by keeping it on the same side all the time.

Punch at the base - never do it to the post or you can snap it clean off the base (I've done this before.)

I've had fury before when working on airsoft. But that.. That must've been absurd.

ILLusion March 5th, 2010 14:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by ujiro (Post 1179498)
I've had fury before when working on airsoft. But that.. That must've been absurd.

No fury required. It can happen with a very light tap. It's soft die-cast metal, with the post formed at a right angle to the base. It's not hard to break it clean at the edge.

Daiviet March 5th, 2010 14:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILLusion (Post 1179500)
No fury required. It can happen with a very light tap. It's soft die-cast metal, with the post formed at a right angle to the base. It's not hard to break it clean at the edge.

I think he's talking about the fury AFTER breaking the sight

ILLusion March 5th, 2010 14:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daiviet (Post 1179510)
I think he's talking about the fury AFTER breaking the sight

Oh, hahahaha. Yes, in that case there was quite a bit of leg thrashing and crying.

juicy March 5th, 2010 15:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by ujiro (Post 1179498)
I've had fury before when working on airsoft. But that.. That must've been absurd.

Oh gosh, lol. Thanks guys.

m102404 March 5th, 2010 15:14

THAT...is the reason one of my pistols has an aftermarket fiber optic front sight on it....:)

AND THAT is the reason I have 2 extras slides and complete front and rear Hicapa sight sets just sitting in a box.

aznpos531 March 6th, 2010 01:43

Could someone be so kind as to list the companies that make a 1911 GBB? AFAIK, the following companies make them:

1911:
- TM
- WE
- KSC
- KJW
- WA
- Army (?)
- Socom Gear (?)
- Bell
- Meister (Murashin?)
- RWC
- Tanaka
- J-Armory (?)
- KWC

2011:
- TM (?)
- KSC

MEU:
- TM
- Army(?)
- WA
- Socom Gear
- WE


Probably still missing some.

edit: Listed edited.

pusangani March 6th, 2010 02:14

Bell

juicy March 6th, 2010 12:23

Meister (I think they do, at least). Pretty sure the only single stacker that Army makes is a MEU.

Slono March 7th, 2010 00:13

Damn me for tinkering with my 1911 again. I swapped almost everything out and back in and its still firing like a limp p3nis. I've ruled out any possibility of it being the upper assembly from all the swapping. I think it has to do with the striker/valve knocker. It seems to be working the way its supposed to without the mag in (ie. rack the slide, valve knocker retracts so its flush with the chassis wall, press the trigger and it kicks out) so I'm at a loss for what I can do to find out exactly what's going on with it.


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