OK! So I hope this is the right thread to ask!

So here's my question - which is the BEST Hi-Capa?? I have a chance to get myself one soon, but I don't know which one is the best... I did some googling, but couldn't make up my mind.

There's KJW, then there's WE(TM? Is WE TM's trademark in US? if someone can confirm with me that would be great) - then there's the models : Hi-capa KP-05, KP-06, 4.1, 5.1, Dragon, 7-Dragon, and on and on.... making my head spin a little @_@;;

I'm looking for one that I can game with, and I can also go for tactical shooting clinics with. Any suggestions? I also saw there's WE 1911 4.3 Tactical... Which LOOKS like a Hi-Capa, but comes in Tan.

Thanks everyone,

WRONG! WE is Wee-Eitech, TM is Tokyo Marui.... thats it....

Get a TM or nothing... even thow the TM has a plastic slide (stock) it performs great out of the box, and you could always customize it after.... (like most poeple do :P)

WE gbbs are crap...in general.... and their hi-capas are Uber fail from what I've read/heard....

This is sort of the right thread... this is more about Tokyo Marui 1911/Hi-Capa customization, however. You're on the right track starting a thread of your own, that's for sure. The only answer you'll probably get from here is "get a TM".

Avoid the WE 1911's like the plague. Straight up.

Difference between loading nozzles for Hi-Capa's and 1911's? Is there any? Seeing as a hop up unit from a Hi-Capa can be put into a 1911 and it'll work fine, I'm thinking there's not... However, could there be slight differences in the length of the loading nozzle tip, or something like that?

If this has already been asked, my bad.

Brian, do you have a pic for that o-ring? I think I lost mine. I'm not sure is this cause the BB roll out the barrel.

I had one lying around here... I really couldn't tell you how I got it.. it was in my pile of spare parts and/or leftover parts from installations.

TM > WE > KJW.

I've had so many problematic KJW's pass through my hands that I can't really recommend them at all unless you have very strict limits (ie tight budget but require metal slide/barrel.)

WE's are a bit better but still suffer from durability issues. Fitment issues also still exist with slightly more wobbly barrel-to-slide and slide-to-frame fitments, but as far as QC goes, they're better now than in the past. This is the most recommended option for a low budget but metal slide/barrel requirement.

If your budget allows it, the best option is always Tokyo Marui for the greatest compatibility with aftermarket components, quality control, durability, and fitment.

Once you figure out which brand to get, the decision of what model to get is purely YOUR choice... I can't tell you what to get, as I don't know what your play style is. If it makes any sense to you, I have every model in the Marui line, only because each one has it's own characteristics.

But if you want an overall "do-it-all", I would suggest a 5.1 with adjustable rear sights and ambidextrous safeties to start with. Later on down the road, you can get more specific models, but the 5.1 I've described covers almost every base.

No difference in nozzles. They are cross-compatible.

Sorry, I don't have a pic of it on hand. Maybe if I get a chance to take apart another pistol soon.

It should not be the cause of your BB roll outs.

I'm trying to solve a pistol with the same problem right now.

Anyone have any experience with this?

http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop...5119886344.jpg

slightly faster slide cycle when compared to stock recoil spring, but the down side is the slide won't lock back when the mag is empty.

Might as well short stroke it yourself.

What if you cut the spring coils yourself? Would that work?

It does what it does, better than OEM, but it's not as effective as other solutions out there.

You've already purchased half of the equation from me... all you need are 3-4x shock buffers to short stroke and you'll have a much more powerful and faster blowback cycle.

That would completely defeat the purpose of it, and you would be left with a spring rate that's probably only at par with the original recoil spring. The spring itself isn't a high speed spring... it's only meant for short stroking. That's why Nine Ball has a separate high speed recoil spring in their product line.

Here's the original o-ring:

http://i738.photobucket.com/albums/x...l/P1070473.jpg

I replaced mine with a bigger oring... the adjustement whell is actually kinda stuck now.. or only allows really little movement :P
so to install it, before closing the hopup unit, set it to the correct-ish hopup setting... then put the unit back together, and shoot, and do little-tiny adjustement :P

Here's where i got that oring from:

http://i738.photobucket.com/albums/x...l/P1070474.jpg
http://i738.photobucket.com/albums/x...l/P1070475.jpg

Every once in a while my gun wouldn't shoot a BB. It'll still shoot and cycle, but no BB comes out. As a result, 2 BBs are chambered. At first I thought it's either the barrel or hop up. Turns out it was caused by the nozzle internals, and I was using the SD POM set. I don't know what they are called, but it seems that the valve inside failed to return to the initial position, causing all the gas to blow back instead of propelling the BB first. I am now running the SD POM nozzle with stock internals, and it works. :D

yes, known issue is that the SD valve that comes with the nozzle is poop.

For that shim issue, I used an actual metal shim, thinnest one I could find.
Hopup used to dial itself off all the time, now it stays exactly where I put it.