hmm ultra fast, thing that came across my mind is an ultra fast slide cycle will cycle so fast that it did not gave enough time for the magazine spring to push the BB up and cause misfeed.
in that case it happen, should i have to make the magazine spring harder ?

thank you.

Worry about that when it actually happens, because as long as you're using Marui mags, I highly doubt you'll experience such a problem... and if you are, I'd really like to see a video of your insanely fast cycling gun. It would have to be nuts to go faster than the feed spring.

im using marui magazine since other magazine brand tend to wobble or even stuck like the KJW hicapa mags :D
hmm to create a super fast slide cycle, yesterday im using five layer of AS shock buffer and its washer, and it did cycle so fast but no bb coming out of the barrel not because of the mag spring but because the nozzle did not slide back enough to push the BB from the magazine...hahaha this is fail, fast cycle, low recoil but no BB coming out.. :D

my built almost complete.... but i just want to make sure.
i wanna ask about :

1. what's the difference between metal slide fo hi capa 5inch with Long Dust Cover and without LDC ??
2. i'm using Xcelerator chassis 5inch , which metal slide should i choose ? LDC type or without LDC type ?
3. just out of curiousity , can any1 show me hi capa built with metal slide LDC type ???

thanks

"LDC" = Long Dust Cover. It refers to the frame's dust cover (the front/muzzle portion of it... it acts as a cover to keep dust out of the internals.)

Here is an example photo of the differences:

http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7455/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7456/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7457/large.jpg

The top version is standard Marui Hi-Capa 5.1, with a standard "short" dust cover type frame, with scalloping in the muzzle of the slide to mate with the end of the short dust cover.

With an "LDC" setup (like the 4.3 and the 5" on the bottom), you'll notice that besides the longer dust cover on the frame, there are also no scalloped cuts in the slide. It is what we call "block cut" to mate with an LDC frame.



Ultimately, it is up to you to decide how you want to configure it... some people like the look of a block cut slide on a short dust cover frame, or the look of a scalloped slide on a long dust cover frame, but purists will scream bloody murder if you do such a thing. There ARE real steel manufacturers that mix it up on occasion, but it's generally not preferred. Mixing a block cut slide on to a short dust cover frame can cause damage to the bottom corners of the slide at the muzzle and/or can damage your holster as well as create difficulty in holstering the pistol. This is why scalloping exists.

On the flip side, putting a scalloped slide on a long dust cover frame can build up dust/dirt/grit around the scalloping where it meets the frame. This would tend to be counterproductive to the purpose of a dust cover.

wow that's fantastic info you gave me.
that's mean when i use the ldc chassis frame 5inch , i also have to use metal slide ldc type too, correct ?

You don't HAVE to. There are a number of airsoft and RS pistols I've seen pictures of with LDC frames and slides that are designed for ... well, shorter dust covers. IMO it looks better LDC with LDC, could possibly be functionally better - less space for dust to enter internals?

I'm not sure about functionality, actually. Never experimented with non-LDC slide on LDC frame when fielding Hi-Capa's.

Well, thank you.
:eek:

Like I was saying, you're not going to end up in prison if you mix it up, but it's generally preferred to match it up.

Just wanted to post this up to let you guys know that I've created a complete disassembly video of the Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa 5.1:

YouTube - Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa Disassembly


I've added this in to the FAQ.

Disassembly of almost all TM 1911/2011 based pistols follow the principles outlined by this video.

Assembly video is currently in production.

I hope this video helps to answer some questions.

many thanks to you , oh master :)

i'll post my built hi capa... soon

Hi lontearab, you come to the right place for information of tuning your HiCapa
and it's good to found another Indonesian here :D

Illusion, have you ever try a loading nozzle made from metal/aluminium ?
some local seller here were selling it for quite hefty price, about $50
is that "super" durable enough so it will never break ?
when i ask the seller, he claimed he never tested that stuff

-thank you-

Never tried it, and don't intend to because I see no need to. I haven't had an enhanced plastic nozzle break on me yet, so I don't see the need to upgrade to a heavier and harder aluminum nozzle that can potentially increase wear to surrounding components unnecessarily. To me, it seems like suffering too many downsides for an over-engineered product.

Unless you're pushing CO2, I really don't see the need for it.

For what it's worth, ARMY includes "metal" loading nozzles with their TM clones, but these crappy metal loading nozzles are known to BREAK under regular propane use. Saying it is "metal" means nothing alone. These ARMY ones are simply die-cast zinc-aluminum.

They do? I didn't get one with my MEU.

Sure, but then what about on GBBR's (i.e. the Magna platform)? Why is it that people use them on those? Oh wait, we're talking crappy cloning companies, not mid-end reputable manufacturers - right. Maybe this isn't a valid point at all then, lol.

No idea if all of them do... but the two that came across my hands came with them as part of an included "spare" parts kit.

That's... not *really* the same. You're talking about the bolt. In function, you could say that they technically do the same thing: it contains the gas, forces the "bolt carrier" / "blowback unit" back, and strips off the next round while loading it in to the chamber... but in a Magna based M4 GBBR, the walls of the bolt are MUCH thicker than the loading nozzle of a GBB, and the bolt takes on much more impact (heavy bolt carrier, stronger buffer spring, heavy buffers), and thus, requires the additional strength.

Additionally, these metal bolts on M4 GBBR's are usually made of machined metal rather than craptacular die cast metal.
There ARE die-cast metal bolts out there, but ask AGM clone owners how their awesome metal bolt is holding up. :P (fyi, it's the first part that blows and needs replacing.)

Further: There ARE plastic bolts available for the M4 GBBR Magna platform, but are not widely popular, due to higher wear rate along its rails as well as where the hammer roller contacts. Keep in mind that these bolts travel much greater distances than GBB's, so they do experience a lot more wear than a relatively short stroke GBB. Plastic M4 GBBR bolts are much lighter in weight compared to a machined 6061/7075 aircraft aluminum version, but there is no noticeable difference in performance at all. ROF and gas consumption has been noted to be equal, so might as well go with the tougher and harder wearing (aircraft aluminum) counterpart if you are given that option.

I was going to say that it's an unfair comparison, but not ever having ever tried one of these metal GBB nozzles, it'd be unfair to shoot them down before even seeing it. It would depend on several conditions before I'd give them a go ahead.


m61a1, could you send me a link to this part? Do you have any additional information on the part?