i dont know whether this will help but my hi capa with 6" PDI palsonite (which the say will give a slightly higher fps than normal PDI) and SD nozzle (standard TM floating valve and dyna spring), Nine ball dyna piston head,and standard mag valve, is clocked at around 345-360 ish with 0,2 BB and guarder gas

That's 1.2J for your build...hmm. Well I actually haven't tried using CO2 for gas propellant yet, and since I'm planning to use 5.1 inch PDI barrel, I hope I get around the same fps as your build with green gas and the RRC heavy floating valve bulb.

Thanks for the info anyway :P, I really just want a reference of the max FPS that a hi capa can actually reach (whether with CO2 or green gas).

Quick question, is the outer barrel suppose to rattle and move forward an inch, while the slide is in the lock back position?

is nine ball recoil spring guide and plug for 1911 is made by casting or CNC? what material is it? steel or aluminum or pot metal? thanks
any suggestion on a good or the best rec spring guide and plug? will there be any performance difference between buying cheaper ones like guarder and expensive one like prog4 guide/nova plug?

Close to the equivalent of 400fps with 0.20 with the right mix of parts, gas, and BB's.

Damn, only 1.48J? I'm planning to put the heaviest available floating valve out there right now, the RRC one (at 4g I believe; info from another thread per Illusion) as well as the nine ball stiffer floating valve spring, nine ball hop rubber, PDI barrel and using CO2 gas.

What are the parts you're assuming to be inside the build to reach 1.48J? :P

i dont think even with the best of parts and co2, a hi capa can reach 2J with 0,2 while keeping 5.1 inner barrel.(with my current knowledge/ skills anyway)
a friend of mine do have a hi capa with a little more than 500fps with 0,2 BUT he's using extremely long custom inner barrel that he hides with a silencer.

Hmm I see...

Well, I can always get the PDI silencer adapter, fit my King Arms AAC silencer over it and use the Prommy G-spec 6.03mm barrel to see if it'll boost up the power... thanks for the info :P

Anyone know of any aftermarket metal bodies that have a left handed mag release?

quick question guys, for those who own a nova kit, from what material is the outer barrel made of? is it any good? i heard thats its aluminum? will prog4 steel non-tilting outer barrel works with nova kit(the slide and nova barrel bushing)? drop in fit or need work? thanks

Like I said earlier, it is always recommended to match brands. I've never mixed Guarder slides with these barrels before, so I can't comment on what the specific reason for your problems is. I have tried Shooters Design slides with these barrels, and similar problems arised given certain conditions. The lug placement is different for each brand, hence the problems.

For what it's worth, these barrels are manufactured to work specifically with Tokyo Marui's Hi-Capa slide, and the matching slides for this barrel were also original machined exactly to Tokyo Marui's specifications. I know Guarder and Shooters Design is a bit different in this regard, so again, I do not recommend swapping.

I'd actually recommend you get a matching slide for the barrel, as the Guarder outer barrels are known to suck big nuts and still cause problems with the Guarder slide (despite being matched brands.) I've had some headaches with it. On occassion, they will fit with no problems. About 50% of the time, some fitment is required.



Based on your description regarding the recoil rod bushing, the original Tokyo Marui bushing has a ramp on one side to allow clearance of the bull barrel. Performing the same thing on your bushing may help to alleviate this problem.

Sorry, I don't have much data on hand to recall specific numbers for you, but I have one performance readout here still:

312.9fps is the max velocity, with 0.25g BB's.

Yes. This linkless design is about 90 years old:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Browning_Hi-Power

The actual concept itself is 100 years old this year:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M1911_Colt_pistol

Thank John M. Browning for this innovation. It serves no purpose for airsoft, except to emulate the mechanics of the real thing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recoil_...coil_operation

My guess is CNC steel... but I've been wrong about their products in the past. The pot metal they use and their process on it is very high quality. Among the highest die-cast products in the industry. I also would not be surprised if it was TN coated brass.

I personally prefer the Firefly spring guides. Plugs, I just use whatever is available and fits best with the spring guide I choose. Depending on my build, I may pick a (lightweight) aluminum one over a (heavy) stainless steel bushing for faster slide cycle speed versus harder kicking blowback or vice versa.

There is a difference in manufacturing quality between the cheap ones and the more expensive ones.
Whether there's a PERFORMANCE difference or not, that may be subjective. As long as the internals is smooth and the entrance way is crowned to allow a smooth and easy movement of the recoil spring, then it should be fine. Cheaper quality ones generally have a rougher surface finish.

None available. The magazine shells would also have to be completely re-tooled to accept a left handed or ambidextrous release.

Aluminum. My guess is aircraft grade 6061 or 6064. It's okay... does the job. But I prefer more weight in my barrels...

I will confirm non-tilting outer barrel with Nova kit in a few weeks.

thanks brian, i also prefer heavier outer barrel and curious about the non tilting one's since heavier outer will eat the slide faster right? i mean the notches that pushes the chamber back into battery. my AS slide got busted with only about a hundred or so shot using SD chamber and homemade outer barrel (made out of steel), i'm assuming the prog4 all steel would be heavier.

Thanks!:D

I'm having this issue where every other trigger pull seems to be ineffective. Doesn't fire the gun or something. This happens on both my stock MEU and a slightly upgraded one. It's not a mag issue, since I've tried a bunch of different mags. Any ideas?

check your trigger stirrups and see if they are bent, one trigger pull might be reseting the sear and the 2nd one trips it, it's supposed to be tripping it every time.