Sorry for the very noob question, but by trigger pull, is it the distance you have to pull before the shot goes off, or literaly, the trigger is harder to pull?

Typically, your trigger will have a "take-up", which is the distance in which when the trigger travels from its normal rest position to when it "hits a bump". Then at that point you have to use more force to over come the contact pressure between the hammer and the sear. The first is affected by amount of slack between everything, and the 2nd is affected by disconnecter and hammer spring rate(among other things). Take-up can be measured by distance, and the pull is measured by force(or "weight", since its measured in lb force). The way 1911-style single action trigger is designed, you can, through some tuning, to get the take-up to be practically nothing, and a very light trigger weight. Which is one of the reason why its popular as a competition platform.

There are two factors that make up the total "trigger pull":

- Length
- Weight

You are describing both, but combined together, these characteristics make up the "trigger pull."

Apologies if this has been answered before (I searched to no avail), but I'm interested in installing dytac luminous night sights onto my hi-capa 5.1. I see from the description "some modification may be required" -- am wondering what that actually means. How easy/difficult are they to install? Dremel required or no?

That means you're going to have to crack out 2-3 different shaped hobby files and re-shape the dovetail mount (either in the slide, or on the sight itself), so that the two parts mate. The process is not describable. If you don't know how to fit parts together with small files, you probably shouldn't be trying it at all.

Why they'd mould a production part with improper dimensions is beyond me... if you ask me, I have a strong feeling the Dytac product is a direct copy of the Nine Ball Combat Sight Set, which has this exact same fitment problem.

I'd say I'm fairly versed in re-shaping parts for fitment, but even I find installing these sights to be a major pain in the butt. I suppose you could use a Dremel tool, but the work is a bit intricate, and a Dremel tool may overdo it.

There are other things about this sight set that bugs me, but I won't go into it at the moment....

Disclaimer: I have googled, several times, and come up with close to nothing worth mentioning on the subject.

Anyway, I'm curious as to what real steel (RS) parts can be fitted to a TM 1911. I know grips fit and that sights can fit - although it requires some serious fitting.

The parts I'm really interested in is slide stop and magazine catch, as the RS parts are actually cheaper to come by - at least compared to NOVA parts.


Edit:

Also, I'm a little interested in the whole "fitting RS sights to a TM"-discussion you had on page 7 or so. I've tried to find more information about this, without result.

Is it doable, or should it be avoided at all costs? I haven't found any other decent-looking sights to put on my PGC-kit.

Is it the same deal with the RS sights, or even worse?

Fyra,

I've just fitted a RS novak sight to the prowin kimber mbk (its novak cut. Not kimber cut - learned that the expensive way -$100)...

Its not difficult, but it does take time.... My gun is still with my friend whose putting them together, so I can't take a picture of it. Anyway... Just imagine this, a real sight is a 'block/bar' cause there's nothing under it, where as the airsoft sight has a U groove ish - to accomodate the BBU.,, so basicly we need to file the unit to fit a BBU.. And leave the side 'feet' to lock into the slide.

Hope I describe it enough.

Now, I need some help with my 1911 build...
1.the hammer won't fully 'hit', the bb flies out but the slide won't rack back..
2. And the slide sometimes won't move smoothly, like there's a friction.. But the BBU wasn't hitting the frame..
3. The nozzle won't return.. Will it cause problem? Even with just manual pull with hand, it won't return.. But when racking the slide about 1/2 the time it will return. I've just bought some AS and MAG spring to try. The BBU seems to have friction

I've used a M1911 TM (metal body from years back, could be creation?) to fill the prowin Kimber warrior mbk
- Metal outer barrel - looks SS.. + spring guide and bushing from the old 1911
- 9ball BBU + std internal, only changed ARS nub thingy
- std internal for frame, but I've just gotten the PDI delta hammer, std leaf spring - but have AS lightweight one
- NOVA slide stop (major fitting to fit), beaver tail, MSH, and ambi safety

anyone can help me with the problem? We have worked on it for weeks - including waiting for replacement parts, but we are still clueless..

Thanks,
Nicholas

Alright, so I should order Novak cut sights for mine?

What did you use; hobby files or a Dremel?

Fyra,

If you can, post a picture of your slide.. I'll have another look. Most likely its a novak, but just to make sure :)..

I used what they called a jeweler file.. It has a bunch of different style files. If you can, get the diamond file..

Nicholas:

Haven't bought the kit yet, just doing some research to avoid making expensive mistakes.

But the one I'm thinking of is the PGC/Pro-Win Kimber Warrior Kit.

So I would guess it's the same sight cut as the standard TM MEU sights.

That's what I have.. So its definitely Novak cut sight :).

Would a RS Bomar sight like the one below be able to fit 5.1 hicapa slides?

http://www.snipercompany.com/images/...arSightCut.jpg

It would probably need major mods as the slide for the real gun does not have a BBU under there. (***weird this was a reponse to turoks post but... his post suddenly disappeared?)

oh yes, i deleted it because i already got a response from brian.. thanks!

PS: ou mean the slide for the real gun does NOT have a BBU right?

Surely you mean that the real gun DOES NOT have a BBU under there.

Also, according to n1co0 and of course depending on what cut the standard sights are, the standard should be Novak, not Bomar cut.