Since the conversation is already started here, might as well finish it:

With determination, the right skills and the right tools, I'm sure most anything can be fitted on, but how well it fits and how much work is required will be totally dependent on the person installing it, as well as how fat the wallet is of the person who's financing the project. I simply can not envision an economically viable reason for going down such a route....

yea. No BBU. my bad.

Illusion,

Do you have to fit the barrel lug vs slide lug when you buy a mbk?
I've narrowed down my problem to the tolerance of slide hood/near the breech vs the top of the barrel (the flat side + the last lug).. Even by hand cocking, there's plenty of resistance.

And also the 'plastic' nub that locked the hopup/inner barrel with the outer barrel sleeve.. I have to sand it down abit. To get some smooth action.

Now I'm tempted to order the 1911 barrel fitting tool.... Do you ever have to do that much fitting?

Nicholas

Usually, no. Most companies are good with making their parts work with each other. The Pro-Win/PGC Kimber Warrior kit is a different story, which I find stupid. It's like the engineer who designed it never bothered to check fitment, and they've been continuing to manufacture it with an error which causes the two parts to self destruct if the user continues to attempt using it in its condition.

You need to grind/file/sand the rear portion of the top of the ejection port shorter by about 1mm. Otherwise, the slide lug will not contact the chamber properly, and is the cause of your feeding errors. I've had to do this fix for three people's guns so far.

Plastic nub? What did you build the kit on? A WE?

What's "the 1911 barrel fitting tool"?

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...10309-0936.jpg
That right? the red mark? I did some filing on them and it does improve the friction abit, as the barrel have a space to "duck" (the barrel moved 1mm back) into the chamber instead of hitting it head on....

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...10309-0935.jpg
I did that too.. just to curve it abit.. as the factory std, is too "flat" (english?)
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...10309-0936.jpg
and those too


http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...10309-0935.jpg that piece of black thingy.. sorry on the fuzzy pic, best I can do with a BB :(... I have to file both the plastic nub and the outer barrel piece

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...UG_FITTING_KIT
that thing


Fyra,

Thats how much material was left from the original novak cut
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...10309-1024.jpg

You need to make sure the flat part is flush with the BBU. cause if not, the BBU wont align straight, even if you manage to screw it on.


Nicholas

Thanks for the picture, even though it's quite out of focus and hard to see.

Wouldn't it be easier to just mount the sight on the slide, without the BBU, and just draw on the sight after the shape of the inside of the slide.

That way, I could just start filing, having the line of reference to work with.

Also, did you have to rethread the hole in the sight?

Fyra,

Yup, I referenced the cut from the inside of the slide. The pic is just to show what kind of work you need to make on the sight. I can't give you an exact dimensions, as mine is very rough cut..

I don't rethread the hole. But I did have to cut the screw down abit..

Nicholas

No... incorrect. You may damage your blowback unit and nozzle if you do it this way.

Proper way is to file down the length of the chamber cover instead.

Here:
http://www.pbase.com/image/133050803/original.jpg

TM compability question..

Will TM Detonics' hammer and trigger fit TM 1911 and other variants such as MEU ?

As far as I can tell, they are the same. I haven't had the chance to swap those particular components yet, but looking at them in front of me, they look like they should be compatible.

EDIT: Just confirmed, the triggers are compatible.

Glad to hear that :)

Thanks Illusion.

Hello everyone!

I guess this is only place to find a good help.

I have got problem with NOVA hammer in my TM M.E.U.

NOVA Kimber Type Hammer & Sear Set
Product No. TM-GMP-U01-SB

Here is the hammer photo:
http://www.militaryblog.jp/usr/anvil/DSC_8201-1.jpg
(for my Custom - Kimber Desert Warrior)

1. Then it's installed - Grip Safety don't work (i can shoot even don't press it).
2. Sometime hammer stop on half way and no shot at all.

If i'am install original hammer (TM M.E.U.) - everything is O.K. (no both problems).

I have found small help with remarks from Anvil:
http://www.enten.co.jp/Parts-taiou-itiran.html (Japan)
http://anvil.militaryblog.jp/e96077.html (Japan)

Maybe it will work properly with Nova Grip Safety (i am using now HurricanE Grip Safety - it was in Kit)?

Or better buy new hammer from PDI (Koutetsu Oval Hole Hammer) with PDI sear (QPQ SEAR)?
http://www.x-fire.org/tm_detonics/e...._orval_bk.html
http://www.x-fire.org/tm_m1911/e.qpq_sear.html

Hope your can help me.

Best Regards, T[]RK.

P.S. Sorry for my English.

Anyone has experience with LCT brand??? I am interested in LCT 3-hole trigger for TM hi capa. AirsoftGlobal has them for $18. I want to know if this worth the money in terms of built material.

Remove the half cock nub. All your problems should be solved.

LCT is fairly good quality stuff. On par with Nova. I have a feeling they may even source from the same OEM.

I thought LCT is a Taiwanese brand though.....