Haha alright thanks a lot. I'll keep experimenting with different parts. I was just looking for possible common kinks and adjustments with the parts I have that in not aware of.

Also, do the lightweight blowback housing/units (such as the one by nine ball) make a big difference in cycling speed?

I have got question:

TM M.E.U. and TM Night Warrior are the same (internally)? Can i swap internals parts from Nightwarrior in MEU (like Trigger, hammer, BBU, Slide, Frame, Outer barrel)? Sound crazy, but i have got MEU external parts (after custom my Kimber...) and in local store in stock Night Warrior. And no MEU. For me it's better to buy Night Warrior and make it MEU. =)

In local store: Foliage Warrior, Desert Warrior, Night Warrior (same price).

eHobbyAsia:
Night Warrior
Desert Warrior

I would say quite significant. I use it in a couple of setups.

Yes

Yes

With this installed, is the kick reduced significantly? It seems like this upgrade is more for raceguns.
I timed a double tap on my meu with a shottimer for fun and got a 0.09second interval. I'm not trying to build a racegun but what is considered quick cycling?

Faster than you can pull the trigger :D

Yeah. What Styrak said. LOL.

Kick is reduced, but not so significant that you'll feel like you're shooting a water gun.

Shooters Design chambers for Hi-Capa and M1911\M.E.U. are the same?

I have got Shooters Design Steel (Kimber .45 ACP) Chamber and it's for Hi-Capa Government (GSMS807), but now i need Shooters Design Steel Chamber (BARSTO 45 ACP) and it's for Hi-Capa Government too (GSMS861). My work well in M.E.U., if they are the same - second must work too, right?

I believe RacingManiac's tried that before. I haven't, so I don't know for certain. Would try asking RM though.

I installed the nineball hopup bucking and its great, thanks illusion.

There's a small problem with my trigger. When I rack the slide and don't slam it back into battery, the first pull of the trigger doesn't disconnect the hammer. I then have to pull the trigger again before the hammer disconnects. So basically every now and then when I shoot or rack the slide softly, I need to pull the trigger twice before the hammer is released. There is a click on the first trigger pull but nothing happens. This problem just started a little while ago, I'm not quite sure what's causing it.

Also, I know you already stated this, but a steel valve striker really won't improve consistency of the valve being struck? The tip of mine is getting roughed up because one of my magazines has an action high flow valve which has the flathead groove making me consider a steel valve striker.

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/im...VA-01-AG-1.jpg

This problem's mentioned a few times here already. Enough times to add it to the troubleshooting FAQ on the first page now. :D I've used your question as the basis.

If you're using an adjustable trigger stirrup, then back off the adjustment a bit.

If you're not using adjustable stirrup, then you just need to file a small ramp behind the sear to allow the trigger disconnect lever to slip behind the sear. Your first trigger press jiggles the lever in to place, which is why nothing happens, but on the second press, it functions.

It doesn't improve consistency. Just durability. If your tip is getting mashed up (that sounds so weird...), then upgrading to a steel knocker would be a smart idea.

Does anyone have experience with this hop up rubber, which incorporates a "SCS" nub? Personally I don't think the price is justifiable, but it's certainly an easy DIY with a spare rubber.

Brian if you still remember, I snapped the hop up arm. It was impossible to source a new/used one, so as a result I made one myself by cutting and bending some metal LOL. Ghetto but it works and hop up is adjustable!

I've used it before - didn't like it too much because it fit pretty bulky. But in general, KM hop up rubbers are super durable.

The design is very much the same as Firefly.

Ive got a problem with my hi capa. Its tm stock mostly with a guarder aluminum/ outer barre and 150% recoil/hammer spring. It used to be fine before but recently in the past few months its been acting up.

Somehow it only happens during games. After about 5 or 6 magazines the slide will get stuck and not return all the way. Its not catching the blow back unit on the hammer since the slide gets stuck in random places from about a centimeter before normal to all the way back. Solutions?

p.s. Also looking for a adapter to attach to the threads of my outer barrel to attach a tracer unit.

Does banging the muzzle of the outer barrel inwards release the slide?

What are the threads of your outer barrel?

I haven't tried playing with the outer barrel, I will try it next game. Usually i just slap the back of the slide into place, it works about 80% of the time. After a cleaning it works ok for a few mags.

The threads are pretty shallow. When i bought the barrel the seller pointed me to a link on evike for which adapter to get. I didn't want to order from there and now i cant find the part on their website for a reference.