| Strelok |
April 24th, 2013 09:48 |
Unfortunately I haven't... I was on the last few drops of my chemical and was just able to pull that off. I have a KWA TT33 thats next up on the line that I will treat and record. Possibly a video tutorial.
Even then, its not really that difficult.
I used both an aluminum darkener and a paste bluing solution to get that finish.
You'll want to thoroughly strip the paint off of the gun you're working on. use a toothbrush to scrape off any leftover peeled paint. Then use a scotchbrite or superfine steel wool to polish and clean the surface. Whenever I do that, I only work it in one direction to simulate milling lines on the metal.
After its clean enough, use a degreaser to get rid of any contaminates, then wash it off once again with water.
I usually just use a shop rag to do the finish since the aluminum black works very fast. Dab a bit onto the rag and just rub it into the finish. the more you rub over the metal, the more consistent the finish will appear. Keep rubbing the cloth over it until the surface is consistent and shiny. Clean it off with a wet rag afterwards.
At this point i'll be coming back to the steel wool. Again, ultrafine is preferred here. you'll want to rub it lightly over the areas where the metal would see contact wear. Along the front of the slide from holstering. The slide serrations where its pulled on. The hard edges of the iron sights. Safety and whatever that protrudes. Just imagine what the gun would go through per use to get its wear and apply it.
And if you want the gun to look older, create more wear around the hard edges of the slide and frame. If you look at pictures of old 1911's or pistols in general, the metal finish seems to deteriorate on the edges of the weapon. Just take your time doing this and pay attention to how much finish you take off each time, overdoing it looks terrible.
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