Recommend good drop in gearbox
 

Hi, Ive been having some issues with the gearbox in my dboys ak not being powered by my battery (eg: battery wont work on my gun but works fine in others). I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good top wired v3 gearbox I could drop in as a replacement for the dboys one currently driving me insane? I used to own a cyma ak and was thinking maybe one of their gearboxes, later sold the gun to a friend and its still workin like the day it came out of the box but apparently cyma is hit and miss this way so Im reluctant to order a cyma gearbox and get a lemon this time :(. Something under $150 is best.

....why don't you get a more powerful battery...?

Downgrade spring? 7.4V lipo (if not an 11.1)? More powerful motor (easy drop in replacement but ideal would be to work on gears first)? Torque up gears?

PS: If you want a good motor for the price the Guarder Infinite torques are really good IMO, not too expensive and pretty good performance.

If a certain kind of fuel isn't good for you car.....you don't buy a new car.

Go with a more simple solution. Figure out what is wrong, and fix it. Unless you just like throwing money away, perhaps you could send some to me too?

New engine I think would have been the right analogy lol

Are you running an 8.4v stick battery? If so, might wanna upgrade to a 9.6v stick

Most AK tubes I've seen will accept or can be easily modded to accept 10.8v sticks

+1 . Been comparing a G&P M170 Devil Jet and a Guarder ITU motor over the last while and the Guarder wins hands down.

Compare an M160 instead
I never trusted the M170, always thought they were reaching too far with too little. Every test ever done with one confirmed that.
The M160 is really the pinnacle of the G&P line

Phht. You've never seen the M180 Satan ;)

balanced JG Blue armature in a neodymium can with shimmed magnets.
/end

i am running an 8.4 stick. so far ive been borrowing an 8.4 nunchuck and it seems to work fine for longer. i just figured there has to be something wrong with the gearbox though if its doing this, that and i heard that stock dboys gearboxes are garbage so rather than try to upgrade something just get a new one thats gotten better reviews. basically whats going on is im not getting a battery powering down feeling at all when it starts to go, ill be shooting then it just suddenly stops working. the battery still has power too thats the weird part, after it croaked in my gun i lent it to my buddy to use cause his was starting to die and it was still pretty much at full charge

If your setup has too much torque (400fps on standard ratio gears and crap motor), as most chinasoft guns do, then a regular 8.4v battery won't power it at all, or will only last a mag or two on full charge then stop working quickly.
Try a 9.6v stick battery

Go to a quality 9.6v battery or downgrade the spring.

If you absolutely want to change gear boxes, the v3 king arms or LCT at airsoftparts.ca are solid. The only thing I'd do is change the LCT piston to the modify ultra piston.

BUT, since both boxes have m120 springs (400fps) you still might need to get a better battery.

I also have had very good experiences with this motor.

Also, it's been discontinued :(

They only seem to be now appearing as stock motors for some G&P rifles.

The only thing really holding me back from buying more of the JG Blues is the lack of a G&P-style screw-down terminal. I wish more would copy this feature.

Agreed. All else being equal, I've cranked harder springs at higher ROF than any G&P or Guarder motor.
Too bad it's very difficult to find. The best part? It was half the price of a (comparable? ha) G&P or Guarder motor.

Back to the topic of this thread: I think Sytrak's post has merit. Check what's wrong with the gun before you pour more juice into it. Could be bad shimming that's making the system not as efficient as possible. Save some money in the meantime by enrolling in a learning experience.

Once that all checks out then you can proceed to upgrading your power source.

If you're totally convinced about replacing the mechbox, I'd go with coach's suggestions, but in all honesty while they're better than JG boxes, they're far from ideal.

VFC Also makes a complete V3 gearbox that comes with a stock(?) VFC motor. Should be able to crank the spring in there with an 8.4 but if not then 9.6 is an easy step away or even a 7.4 lipo.

Is that actually a good motor? Better question; is it remotely worth the asking price?

I've heard that if you take a SystemA AtoZ and rewind it (or get a pro RC tech to do it for you) that it can become a kickass motor....

So far no issues with it and it produces an INSANE rate of fire with a higher FPS spring...

But no, I wouldn't say it's worth the asking price... it's one of those "gucci" upgrades.

I don't think that motor is worth buying (hardball aside) as you don't get to really see what's under the hood until you start pulling M170 plus springs with 14.7v batteries.

IMO, G&P motors are way overpriced, but not as overpriced as Systema though. Right now, in the current market, the order of best motors are probably this: Terminus X > Lonex > SHS/Element/Dream Army/JG > G&P > Systema.

Systema at the bottom, the magnums are as bad as the G&P M170s. They're not insulated and draw ridiculous amperage.

Eagle force EF1300 is top of the line, followed by maybe tienly. Haven't tried tienly myself but heard nothing but good things

I'd go with TerminusX followed by Tienly as the best motors on the market, right now. outright, probably the best motors available.

Lonex, JG, SHS/5Ku/Element/Dream Army/yadda yadda are all about equal, with their various characteristics suiting different builds better. HUGE value for $ spent ratio.

G&P/Guarder/Bravo (aka 3One)/EF motors warrant some serious consideration, but they're overpriced considering what you get with some of the other brands

of course you could just make your own armatures, but that's a little OCD even for me.

edit: the Systemas, at this point, who would even freaking bother? uninsulated endbells and seriously overpriced, just dropping an armature from an average ferrous speed motor into a neo can, you'd have a motor that can outperform a Magnum/AtoZ in a heartbeat. again, ferrous JG blue armature into a neo can would probably laugh at an M190 on stock gears.

For the best bang for your buck, the X High Tech motors are great. $25 shipped for a motor that runs cool, and have good performance.

Bravo/3One motors burn out quickly, or so I have heard.

Lonex is actually different from SHS/5KU/Element/etc. Their brush designs are different, and QC is much better.

IMO, for a few dollars more, a TerminusX would be a better investment than a Tienly. There's this video of a TerminusX motor on a 7.4V giving the same RoF as a SHS on a 11.1V.

The TerminusX motors are quite expensive, presently on pre-order, and probably out of the scope of this thread :) ... Any of these other suggestions are already probably way past the OP's needs. Even the JG Blue (which can be found in Canada as a Echo1 rebadge) is a pretty good option.

I didn't say they were the same, but they are slightly more expensive and therefore that sort of counts against it a little (putting one in my rifle though)

well yeah, but the whole thread has pretty much derailed anyway. the OP was asking for a drop-in gearbox. (which, by the way, just build your own drop in gearbox)

hey thanks for all the info! lol i love how this just turned into a huge conversation about gearboxes and the best parts to put in them. Ill try upgrading the battery for now since its sounding like thats the cheapest route at this point and the most likely to fix the problem. im likin all this info though for when I do decide to go balls out and build my own gearbox!

thanks again -Eliot

Fixed!

....so, after all that you decide to sell it.
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...02#post1614402

lol... ASC eye spy detective work.

lol no actually i have 2. i was asking about my main gun the dboys 74... this i never ended up using cause the stock style is hard to get used to so its being sold to finance a grenade launcher :).. I did take recommending a 9.6v into consideration though.. same type of gearbox so id assume at some point same issues