becoming wetarded

[Hectic]

Okay so me thinks ima finally jump on the GBBR wagon seeing as its getting warmer out and whatnot.
So what all do i need. I was hoping to get a 416 but ill likely go withthe cqbr and add a silencer to hide a longer barrel down the road.
So i know i should get an npas but can i get away without it for now untill it starts getting warmer? (reason is id rather just buy the ratech aluminium nozzle and steel bolt with the npas on it alrdy but wont have the cash right away to grab it after gettin the rifle and 10 mags or so)
So will i be able to stay around 400 (or less as it says 370fps) in moderate tempratures?
And what else do i need? A hop up rubber i spose? Do i need a whole hop unit or just the rubber?.
All those steel parts (sears and other trigger bits and such) are those needed out of the box or just run it till something breaks?
Thanks for the info.

[Kos-Mos]

Get the NPAS, so you will be able to field your gun in THIS weather. It won't work with the steel bolt until it's 20+ outside.

Then get a second steel bolt if you want.

The steel trigger parts are not needed on the stock bolt setup, and are prone to additional issues/problems (you have to custom-fit every part to make sure it works. I have a set and didn't install because of that... was waiting for the stock parts to break. Still waiting...)

Hop-up is not bad stock, but anything is an improvement really. Same for tightbore.

[Drake]

+1 that

Get an NPAS and worry about other stuff when it happens. If/when it breaks change it, but it probably won't break early on and runs perfectly fine on stock parts + NPAS.

The NPAS also helps reliability all around, I found. While it may seem counter-intuitive at first glance, LOWERING your FPS via NPAS in cooler weather helps the gun cycle reliably (more gas is channeled to the action). Sure it won't shoot as hard but if you have to pick between a gun shooting 330 that won't cycle properly and one that shoots 290 but cycles properly.... well, I know which one I'd pick.

[Hectic]

So itll be hot even in 5-10 degrees? So what is the fps if its not 370ish like stated on TA? Especially the cqbr with its short ass barrel. I mean i can run prolly up to 410 or so without the hosts around me giving me a hard time (i run 500 fps bolt actions safely all the time so i wouldnt be unsafe a lil hot on a regular rifle)
Edit. Also those "magic pins" does the body wobble that bad that i need those right away?

[Hectic]

So the steel bolt is that heavy eh? Mostly adds to recoil i guess? Ill likely just add the aluminium nozzle then seein as the bolt will just make it a gas hog lol.
As for adons all the rails and stocks and grips are real steel spec or are they we specific?

[Gotrice23]

Looks better with a short barrel, in my opinion. Here is mine, all stock internals minus the 6.01mm Ra-Tech tightbore and King Arms hopup. The cocking handle breaks pretty fast because it's made of pot metal. Broke for me after 500 rnds or so, but I knew it was going to happen so I had it on hand. Reading around ASC you'll find handy little tips like these. I'm still a n00b with my GBBR, so I can't tell you much aside from firsthand experience or reading stuff on the net.

Turok seems to be an expert at these things and I've read a lot of his guides, so maybe do a quick search and see what you can find. Hope that helps =]

EDIT: To haters: No, there is no backup sight, deal with it

[horto]

Gen 2 open bolt mags!

[Hectic]

Mmmmm 416 goodness lol wish TA had em in stock

[Solo36]

I used to have one of these. Great looking gun and it worked like a charm! The only problem I had was when I tried Installing a tight bore RATECH inner barrel.The bb's would feed. perhaps I got a bad barrel. If your looking for one, I saw one in the classifieds for 380 with Npas installed.

[hollywood...]

Originally Posted by Hectic

Mmmmm 416 goodness lol wish TA had em in stock

I am bringing my WE 416 - look me up when you get there, I'll let you shoot it at the range

[Hectic]

Sweet thanks
Hoping ill have mine by then

[m102404]

IMO...one of the biggest up-sell points about WE is that it's a modular system...and stock replacement parts are cheap.

That second part is negated with really expensive, slightly out of spec "upgrade" parts. Most of which, IMO, are not needed.

#1 rule for me with a new WE...if it shoots reliably, don't mess with it too much. Modding is modding though...so if you need to make a build, then you take the good with the bad.

NPAS...sure. However, these things like to run wide open (like all gas systems do) so when you choke it down you get so-so performance/reliability out of it. But we have to work within field limits so that's the nature of the beast.

For me....the only other thing I'll replace is MAYBE change the hopup rubber. The stock one is a little too soft/spongy and these things benefit from a harder rubber with a flatter/wider bump.

Tightbores...meh, not needed for most of the shooting we do with them.

I will do the following though after a build or with a new rifle....
1. cycle the gun (with and without BBs) for several hundred shots in a controlled environment (i.e. my workshop or basement).
2. go over the whole thing looking for loose screws, binding, excessive wear points, etc...
3. I'll take the hopup out and teflon tape the hopup rubber. Helps with air leaks and it firms up the inner barrel in the hopup or else it wobbles (huge affect on accuracy).
4. I'll shim the inner in the outer to center it (huge improvement in accuracy)

Then I'll just run the gun mag after mag until I get bored. If the trigger break gets really bad (it's a mushy-ish break to start with) I might take the trigger group out to look for excessive premature wear.

If the consistency of the shots is still not there after some field use I'll swap the hopup rubber.

For gaming...if the WE is my primary rifle I'll pack a spare bolt from another build. Aside from the trigger group or receiver catastrophically failing...the most likely dead-gun cause in the field is a broken nozzle. You can change them out in the field...but it's a PITA with little pins/springs. A spare bolt/nozzle swap is super quick and easy.

Re. the magic pins/etc...here's my take. These things are not made with the best quality materials. Nor are they held to exacting tolerances. And...for the material quality that they are made of...they operate under quite a bit of force/duress. So...a little bit of slop isn't a bad thing if it keeps the system from self destructing.

My last build is looking pretty good and spitting out pretty tight groups. But there's still flyers. I think that just because of the nature of them they'll never be the "super DMR l33t sniper laser beam" rifle that some guys are expecting. They're still fine for field/CQB use and the fun factor is there...so in the end it's about setting expectations fairly.

[Hectic]

Alrighty so npas hop rubber and a lil tweaking (shim the inner and such) and it may be close in accuracy and range to a stockish aeg i guess?
Yeah itll be mostly for the fun/realism factor. I mostly run my bolt action and will sometimes swap to an aeg for a cpl hours so itll take the place of said aeg for the once in a while i feel like running assult.
Any psticular hop rubber you suggest Tys?
Are you using orings or something as spacers to shim the inner to the outer?
Thanks!
(look at that i gave ya paragraphs and everything lol)

[m102404]

LOL...now to work on punctuation

For shimming the inner barrel I used to use a little rubber oring. Then I ran out of them so I just use tape...either teflon tape or thin packing tape (the space between the inner and outer is pretty tight)

For the hopup rubbers I think the last one I put in was an A+ Studio rubber (I thought they were called MORE rubbers but maybe that was just one of their product lines).

Ratech came out with a clear or blue one too...I haven't tried that.

Ask Jugglez at airsoftparts.ca...he's my go-to guy.

[Hectic]

Mine too lol. Told him he should just rent me a room and save me from drivin back n forth all the time.
Thanks again!